Anthony Gismondi: When smoke gets in your wine

It’s that time of the year when the words “smoke taint” creep into the lexicon of wine producers who have been living on the edge of wildfires or under their smoke during the last half of the growing season.
To be clear not all producers want to talk about the effects of smoke and for good reason — their crops and livelihood are at risk and, frankly, in the case of smoky skies there is not always fire.
Yet for more than a decade forest fires or bushfires have become a ser