A insider's guide to Hong Kong

Seated on his stone pedestal overlooking Po Lin Monastery on Hong Kong’s Lantau Island, the 34-metre-high Tian Tan ‘Big’ Buddha gazes serenely down at me, just as he did when we first met nearly a quarter of a century ago. I’ve returned to visit him, and to rediscover this city I once called home.
In the early 1990s, a visit to Po Lin Monastery required either a slow ride on a country bus or a strenuous hike over Lantau’s lush and mountainous terrain. Today, you can