Wine: A great grüner veltliner can get even better with age

I did a big cleanup in my wine cellar recently. Hidden in a pile of bottles, I discovered a 2002 grüner veltliner, Loibenberg, from the winery FX Pichler. As I held this dust-covered bottle, I vowed to pay closer attention to the wines at the bottom of the pile. Pichler is one of Austria’s premier wineries, and I had a sinking feeling this bottle was past its time.
As it turned out, it was one of the greatest whites I have drunk in the last few years. The aromatics were so pretty