Lesley Chesterman's best Montreal restaurants of 2017

Writing this year’s roundup of Montreal’s top places to eat out, I wonder if restaurant-list fatigue has set in.
When I began writing best-of lists close to two decades ago, I simply chose the five or so restaurants that got the highest star rating, waxed eloquent about why they were so good, and there you’d have it. That’s the way restaurants worked back then: they were either terrific or forgettable, so picking the best was a no-brainer.
Things have changed over the yea