Lesley Chesterman: A meal in Ottawa is a capital idea

There’s an old joke regarding the Ottawa food scene that goes something like this: when someone asks, “Where should I go out to eat in Ottawa?” the quickie comeback is, “Montreal.” Ba-dum-ch!
I know, I know — not nice. But for a while there, it was pretty accurate. I last spent time in the capital over a decade ago, when my search for a good restaurant came up with Domus Café (which closed in 2014), the original Beckta (more on that later) and not much