Bill Zacharkiw: 'Burgundy' is the baseline for all good wine

When I was starting out as a wine critic, I was drinking an old Barolo with one of my mentors, David Scholefield, who now owns the British Columbian winery Haywire. “This is great Burgundy,” he said.
“Um … Dave … this is Barolo,” I replied. “It’s not even pinot noir, it’s nebbiolo.”
He smiled and explained that all wine wants to be great Burgundy. It took me a few years to fully comprehend what he was getting at, but he was right.
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